Jennifer created her look using Chanel Wool Boucle from Elliott Berman Textiles, as well as a silk noile for her lining and silk organza for interlining the body and sleeve caps. The pattern does not call for an interlining, but Jennifer states that it gives the boucle more movement than a fusible interfacing would.
The jacket body is made up of two front panels. two side panels, and two back panels. Jennifer interlines each panel with organza and then applies stay tape to keep the edges stiff and sharp.
For the buttonholes Jennifer used a buttonhole twist thread that is waxed and pulled under an iron (this prevents snaring and chafing of the thread from the fabric). Buttonholes should be sewn with small, tight stitches close together. Though she says the pattern instructions are very clear, Jennifer adds that Claire's book Couture Sewing Techniques gives more detailed information if necessary.
After the buttonholes are sewn, fake welts are hand tacked on to prevent irritation caused by the rough buttonhole backs.
Under the armpits of both front panels, a stay to prevent gaping is created by steam shrinking in a dart. Again, Jennifer says the pattern provides detailed instructions for doing so. The stay is then covered by fabric, in this case it's covered by Jennifer's interlining.
After the stays are created, the panels are hand stitched together to create the full body of the jacket. Jennifer chose to add shoulder pads that are not mentioned in the pattern.
Next, the silk noile fabric is quilted to the jacket as the lining. This process is unusual for other garments, but Jennifer explains that it keeps the lining from shifting and allows it to move as one with the jacket. While the pattern instructs each panel to be lined and then assembled as you work, Jennifer opted to construct the jacket shell and lining in full and then pin and sew the lining to the shell. After the lining and shell are combined, the lining is steamed, shrunk, and pressed.
The four exterior pockets are created by hand overcasting the fabric's edges, then folding them in and pressing. Mitering the corners prevents unwanted bulk. After attaching the lining and trim, the pockets are sewn onto the front panels.
A big thank you to Jennifer for sharing her knowledge and skills with us! As always, the final product looks absolutely amazing. Her jacket is a perfect example of class and timeless style.
Due to the complexity of creating this garment, our post is a somewhat abridged tutorial. Click here to see Jennifer's in depth and fully detailed process.